From Festival to Funeral

Anyone keeping up with the international news these days should already know that the last couple of weeks have been a little rough for South Koreans. The well-liked, populist ex-president of South Korea killed himself by jumping off a cliff. He was under investigation for his involvement in some kind of financial scandal, and the attention apparently shamed him to the point of death. Strangely enough, his actions have made him more popular than ever, with some radical citizens even blaming his death on the current conservative leadership. Also the ex-president was the first and only South Korean leader to visit North Korea; the current government wants nothing to do with the North, including aid.
Which brings me to the second, and slightly more worrisome point. Immediately following the death, North Korea tested a second warhead and formally announced its withdrawal from the peace treaty they've upheld for several decades with South Korea. The wording of their public announcement was deliberately belligerent, not to mention ridiculous, to most people's ears. Most people are unafraid of any empty threats from the North, least of all South Koreans, who've been dealing with them for the past 50 years. But you never know when someone might do something completely crazy. Especially if they are crazy and in charge. Slim chance though.

These pictures are not actually from the funeral itself, but the three day lead up, to give an opportunity to the crowds of mourners bearing flowers or money (a traditional gift at weddings and funerals here) in honour of their late president.

I like some of the funky architecture around central Seoul...
So there's this Architect, right. And he's staring at his sheets of blank draft paper, trying to come up with a fresh idea to impress the city contractors, when his wife walks into the room with a cup of coffee. "Honey, your fly is undone," she says. He starts to zip up, then pauses abruptly, looking down at his zipper. "Eureka!" "You're telling me", she says.

Han River Park & Buramsan Trail

The second weekend of May, Jihyun and I rode the subway to Banpo station and located the entrance to Han River Park. We spent the day wandering Westward along the boardwalk and exploring the attractions along the Southern bank of the river. I would run or cycle here every week, if only it was closer to my apartment.

There were some serious kite enthusiasts at the park. I was reminded of Clover Point back home.

According to the brochure, the "Moonlight Rainbow Fountain" is in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's longest fountain, stretching the length of the kilometer + long bridge. We were there in the afternoon, so we didn't catch the evening light show, but we'll be back.

The sailboats were out in force.

There were teams of cyclists and in-line skaters racing up and down the river: a rare sight in the rest of Seoul, but common here. I felt as if I were in a different city. But no large cities are homogeneous in style and wealth, and Seoul is one of the world's largest cities; it would be foolish to form an idea of the entire place based only on the districts I've lived in.

Yet another Seoul Best Toilet (2002), with beautiful murals, calming instrumental music, and fresh scented and well stocked interior. I actually think recognition for excellence of public facilities in a city as populated as this one is a pretty good idea (and not nearly as goofy as it sounds). Now, if only there were more public trash cans! The government seems to have strange superstitions about trash cans and terrorists (you figure it out). Or maybe that's just their excuse for saving a few dollars.

That's the window of my third floor apartment in the red brick building above. The room directly below, on the second floor, is a shop: Darin's handmade pottery. They often leave the door open so visitors can wander in and out. They have some wonderful dishes and ornaments. I pass the place on the stairs every day, so I've visited a couple of times and met the ladies who own and run the place.

The entrance to Seoul National University of Technology (S.N.U.T.) Just a short walk North from where I live. Before the university, there is a hiking trail that starts where the mountains taper off, and climbs gradually along the ridge that circles Norther Seoul. It's great for jogging, and I followed it for 5 km to the North, where it joins Buram Mt. (the same mountain outside Sanggye, the district where I used to live). The first 3.5 kilometers offer a clear path and relatively easy climb, but the last kilometer or so quickly turns into a more gruelling ascent. I decided to go all the way to the top on my first try; the frequent sign posts kept beckoning me onward to more familiar territory.

An emergency helipad landing on the mountain, at dusk.

By the time I reached the top of the mountain, the sun had set, and it was getting dark. The view was well worth the effort, but I might have been stuck on the mountain, or had a really scary descent, had I not bumped into one of Sean's former students from BCM who recognized me in the dark! The two of them must have been the last people left on the mountain. They had flashlights and beer that they had carried up in their backpacks, both of which they offered to me on the way down. I bless my lucky stars and the hospitality of Korean citizens everywhere.

Friday was "Teacher's day" in Korea. (May also features Children's Day and Parent's Day) So all the teachers went to an an assembly where several classes of Hwarang students were gathered to give us a short speech and sing a bunch of songs in our honour. The words were Korean, and I'm not that fluent yet, so I no idea what they were saying. But the students came up and pinned a bouquet of carnations to each teacher's shirt at the end of the ceremony. Very cute. I just wish my students were as well behaved on every other day. Come to think of it, i don't think my last class of the day even knew it was a holiday. They were still a bunch of monkeys, as usual.