Saturday, November 15, 2008

Colours of Autumn

Last Saturday (November 8th), the teachers of Kwangwoon elementary school embarked on a solidarity hike with students (grades 1 through 6) and their parents. The weather was perfect for the occasion, and the trees on the mountain were clothed in every shade of fall.

The hike was held at Bukahn mountain, which I'd visited last on my birthday. This time we took an easier route to the top. The teachers hiked ahead: before the children were admitted through the fortress gates, they had to answer at least two questions in English, from their respective teachers. The questions ranged in difficulty from "Am I a girl?" (glad that all my grade ones got that one right) to "Do giraffes sleep standing up?" If they couldn't answer, we asked another one from the list.

The vice-principle led the teachers down the mountain by a more scenic route. We stopped at an outdoor restaurant on the way down. The party of Koreans eating at the picnic table next to us came over to say hi. One of them gestured at me, indicating that I should try dipping the tofu in my traditional Korean alcoholic rice beverage (served in bowls). Common sense made me hesitate, but I followed through, so as not to disappoint (I'm the foreigner, what do I know?). As soon as I had the makoli-drenched tofu in my mouth, they held back their laughter, making faces of innocent incredulity that anyone would dream of such a affront to the laws of taste. Needless to say, the other foreign teachers got a good laugh out of it too.

In the past two weeks, I've judged two speech competitions, one of which was held at our school, the other of which I was invited to judge at another elementary school, Kyung Hee. Both involved contestants from all grade levels, and every student had to memorize his or her piece. Some of the speeches were abridged versions of traditional European fairy tales that the whole class had preciously read, while others consisted of essays written by the students themselves. All the judges were impressed by the delivery, the maturity of the content, and the amount of preparation that must have gone into each speech. At both schools, the younger children frequently outdid the older ones in performance value, pronunciation, and memory, not to mention employing a whole host of adorable props and costumes. I was asked by another judge if it were possible to die of cuteness. If so, we barely made it to the end of the competition alive.

The students haven't been the only ones giving speeches in the last two weeks. The teachers at Kwangwoon had to write dialogues for their respective classes and perform them over the P.A. system, twice. As luck would have it, the listening test occurred around the same time I caught another cold and started losing my voice. I'm just recovering now. My fragile immune system is no match for and these germ-ridden children!

I'm also teaching new classes at BCM this term, both of which are "free talk" or advanced level conversation classes that don't require a book. I have to search for articles or other subject material to present for discussion. The demographic of my free talk classes is significantly older than my former, intermediate level classes: most are middle aged, and many are career teachers. It's a relief in a way, to have more flexibility, though I have to be on the ball all the time.

So now, when I'm not teaching classes at Kwangwoon or BCM, I'm taking Korean language classes on Tuesday and Thursday evening at the Culture Complex, one on one with a tutor named Bohyeon. He's the same age as me, recently graduated, and lived in the U.K. for a few months last year. After only a couple of classes, I can successfully differentiate and pronounce most of the syllables in Hangul, if not quite consistently.

Below are the pictures you've all been waiting for: the entire Kwangwoon English-teaching faculty; some of my lively grade one students from Kwangwoon elementary; a few mouth-watering pictures of typical restaurant fare (Samgyapsal!); and the brightly coloured mountainside.















Sunday, November 2, 2008

Work hard, play hard

October has been a slightly frantic month of new experiences, new friends, health setbacks, and changing job expectations. Throughout it all, the weather has been persistently nice. Beautiful clear skies and relatively cool, dry weather. It's a huge relief to be out of the hot and humid season, though we're told that it's still unseasonably warm for this time of year.

One by one, I've acquired a domestic bank account, cell phone, television and internet (I had the last two installed at the tail end of October). I'm quickly becoming accustomed to the bite-sized technological wonder (and burden) that is the cell phone, though my 10 year old students can probably out-text-message me any day. On the 15th of the month, pay day finally came as a relief to the foreign teachers, myself included, who had been rationing their cash advances from BCM. The good news is that it looks like there should be few cash flow problems for the rest of my stay, as my average monthly spending is about $600 or so.

October saw us preparing for "open classes" at Kwangwoon, better known as parents' day, where the students' parents were invited to sit in on our classes for a couple of days running. All the foreign teachers had to prepare lesson plans which were subsequently vetted by the Korean teachers and sometimes entirely revised. Then we had to prepare stand-out material aids and practice the lesson on different classes, prior to our performance on parents' day. Kwangwoon, being a private school, and the special interest in acquiring new students that that entails, I was in a special position as representative English teacher at the grade one level. Fortunately, when the day rolled around, class went off without a hitch: the children were well-behaved and the parents complementary. Ultimately I was thankful that all the hiccups had been ironed out, despite the arguably redundant process.
Also, there have been report cards to assign, as well as midterm tests to write, rewrite, and mark, all of which have forced me to revise my outlook on the level of preparation required for committed teaching at the school. Initially, there was some miscommunication, as well as some seemingly outlandish expectations on the part of our employer at BCM, who is ultimately the one calling all the shots. The foreign teachers were left feeling that they had to strike a precarious balance between the expectations of the Korean teachers at Kwangwoon and those of their evening classes at BCM. Many criticisms that the foreign teachers have received did not initially appear constructive, given the minimal amount of training we underwent on our first day here. However, relationships have gradually improved as we've gotten to know the other teachers and see that they are concerned to help us. Not to mention that the Korean school teachers appear to maintain a relentless work-ethic, and I imagine it must sometimes seem like a nuisance to accommodate new foreign teachers all the time into a ceaseless curriculum.

I've been spending my weekends making new friends and acquaintances, including a few especially fortunate connections. James introduced me to the members of his weekend study group, which I've attended twice so far. He also showed me to a great place called Culture Complex, a mutual study cafe for Koreans learning English and foreigners looking to acquire some Korean. Foreigners are invited to become members free of charge, enjoy free drinks, and come to meet and chat with Koreans who can already speak some English. It's a win-win situation for everybody. The manager's name is Yung-jin. He established four branches in Seoul, though he usually stays at the venue in Hyewa, which is 20 minutes on the subway from my apartment. The bar is located near the national hospital I was registered at, as well as being close to several universities, so it caters predominantly to students in their 20's and 30's.

After purchasing a book on learning Korean for beginners, and introducing Ty to CulCom, Jin invited both of us to attend his wedding which happened to be taking place the following weekend. We were much obliged: the food was great, and there was a freak thundershower that started as the procession began, only to stop around the time the wedding ended! It didn't manage to dampen anyone's spirits: the wedding and reception were, uncharacteristically, held in the same location (with the dinning halls right behind the marriage pavilion), and the atmosphere was one of a big party. The couple even sang solo and then did a duet, right after their marriage vows! Jin memorably said his "I do's" (in Korean) as if he were scoring a touchdown each time; he had reason to, given his beguiling wife, Sora, who also frequents CulCom.

Both Yung-Jin and Sora are fluent English speakers, and have traveled far abroad. The newly wed couple left immediately on their honeymoon, but returned just in time to join the Halloween party being held at their cafe in Yeoksan. Ty and I attended: you can see my ingenious last minute ninja costume in the pictures below (thanks to Youtube and a pair of Jared's black socks!). It was a fun night to make some new friends, made even better by the warm welcome we received from Mr. Kim, upon returning to our own neighborhood, when we decided to drop by his restaurant at 1:00am in the morning. Mr. Kim and Mrs. Chong are managers of the restaurant that Tye has frequented since arriving in Seoul, and they'd invited him over to celebrate their anniversary that night. They welcomed us as family even though we were two hours late, and we eventually teetered home, a complementary bottle or two of soju later.

One weekend, I paid a visit to Jongmyo shrine, a heritage site for ritual ancestral worship, and met up with some funny teachers from Newzealand along the way. The following weekend, James helped kick-start my Hangul alphabet lessons, and I discovered how surprisingly efficient it is. I've learned that South Korea actually boasts one of the highest literacy rates in the world, attributed in large part to the scientific design of their alphabet! In the afternoon, James showed me to the track at at Seoul Racecourse park, where I bet small change on the horses and their jockeys for 4 consecutive races (every 30 minutes), and actually came out on top by a few dollars. I can see why so many people in the cramped stadium find it an addicting pastime!



The Changdechong river near Dongdaemun street market.


King's incense burner at Jongmyo shrine. 600 years old.



A Korean Magpie. They're common around here. I like the bold colours.



Panorama of the main hall. The king's court performed ancestral rites here.


The Newzealand teachers and I doing our best Maori warrior pose.

Entrance to the Hall of Everlasting Peace.


Quite peaceful, really.




At the subway station, most people could not tear their eyes away from the rotating dais, with the irresistible, sleek, model in black, with four wheel drive and... oh! you meant human one. Forget GM Daewoo.

Cute craft idea: hallway slippers

Grade one hallway hooligans.

The school puts its best foot forward for "open class", more commonly known as Parents' Day.


Groom and bride: Yung-jin & Sora , the happy couple.

Statue at the entrance to Seoul Racecourse Park.

And the winner is....

Huge stadium. Races every weekend. Place your bets!


The little prince finds his rose.

The Little Prince, etched into the pavement of the plaza near my apartment

Francesca, me, and other frequenters of the Culture Complex at Hyewa.

How do you like my "don't mess with me" ninja stare of death?

Michael Phelps won the costume contest.

Giant monkey-suit guy was the only one to fail round one of the limbo contest.

I think Baek ji hyun's fuzzy giraffe ears are undercutting my deadly ninja stare.

I don't know why I even bother to try, with a guy in a diaper next to me.

Tye and Mr. Kim, manager of our favorite Galbi restaurant.

Myself and Mrs. Chong, Mr. Kim's wife. Our "Korean family."